Esopus and the River
By Anne Gordon Port Ewen Town Historian and Ulster County Historian
If Henry Hudson sailed today up the river bearing his name, one can only speculate about the differences he would find. When he made his voyage in September of 1609, the richness of the colored leaves must have been unlike anything he had ever seen before. As he sailed by Esopus, he might well have observed Indians, out in their canoes, and farming the high banks. Their houses and cooking fires would scarcely be seen among the thickly growing trees.
In 1777, New York State was organized. During the Revolutionary War, the river was full of flotillas of was ships, British and American. The Banks of the Hudson were the scenes of many important military maneuvers, including the burning of Kingston by the British. In this year, the first school was established in Esopus, on Clay Road. After the war, in 1791, the first church was built in Ulster Park.
By 1809, Esopus had grown, although it was still an agricultural area with a few settlements, inns and taverns along the roadsides. It separated from Kingston to become a town in 1811. The river was still its main highway. Many men in town made their living on the river as fishermen and ferry operators. When the Delaware & Hudson canal opened a Hudson terminal in 1827, it brought many changes to the town. Coal was hauled by barge to the mouth of the river and from there shipped to many cities, north and south. The east facing banks of the river proved a very favorable site for orchards, leading to the establishment of one of the country’s leading area for the production of fruit. Farmers used the stock of fruit trees whose seeds had been brought over from Europe by the early settlers. The native grapes and berries were also profitable crops.
By 1909, the busy river traffic included hauling coal, bricks, ice, bluestone, and produce. There were giant white steamboats everywhere. Fishing was a year–round occupation. There were three ferries crossing from Esopus to the eastern bank. Many wealthy men built fine mansions overlooking the river, and sailed their large yachts to and fro. John Burroughs, living in West Park, complained that he found the constant traffic and noise a distraction to his writing.
Now, here we are in 2009. If one took Henry Hudson for a ride on the “Rip Van Winkle” today, what would he see? The river banks are still thickly lined by trees as in the early days, since most of the orchards and vineyards are no longer cultivated and have been overgrown. There is a lot of housing, both private and multiple units. Large religious institutions have taken over some of the mansions or built their own impressive structures.
The river traffic consists of sail and motor craft, or huge tankers cutting through the water. The fishing industry has been gone for many years, as have the steamboats. A few ruins of ice houses or brickyards can be seen on the bank. Bridges have replaced the ferries. Our town has changed and grown, but the river still rushes by.
